"Best Mediterranean Cruise ever!!"

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June 19. This was by FAR the most exciting part of the trip. First of all, it was our first time on the African continent. Then we took a 12 hour tour that took us on a 3-hour bus ride (with an uzzi-carrying security guard) through the desert to Cairo, the Great Pyramids, and the absolutely amazing Sphinx. Incredible. The pictures don't do it justice. Interestingly, what you don't see in the pictures is that the town has built up almost to the edge of the famous historical area, and hawkers try to force their wares upon you whether you show any interest or not. One actually took my sun visor off and tried to put one of those white squares held by a cord upon my head. I was quite annoyed by that, but really got irritated when he wanted to charge me for wearing it! The peddlers are of all ages, from 3-4 years old, to very, very old, and there were at least a couple hundred of them. There are also men on camels who want to charge you for taking their picture. This led us to learn an Egyptian phrase: "Onedollar, onedollar, onedollar." They are so poor, I guess they have to make a living somehow, but this was quite an obnoxious way to do it. Even the policemen ride camels here! I have no idea how they can stand to be in the sun all day.

After leaving the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx, we boarded the bus again and drove through Cairo to the Sakkara Country Club. The area of Cairo we saw was a place of extremes--beautiful homes and abject poverty. The Nile's canals in this area are so polluted it's hard to describe. People dump their garbage directly into the water, which is muddy green with all kinds of litter floating on the surface. Shockingly, we also saw people fishing and swimming amid the flotsam. I can only imagine that disease must be rampant. Very few homes or apartment buildings appear to be complete, with rebar sticking out of the top floor. There is a law here that people don't have to pay taxes on unfinished buildings! We saw people living under canvas or corrugated metal atop these unfinished buildings, as all members of a family usually occupy a single building, and if there are many in the family, they have to go somewhere. The bride must move in with the groom's family (altho that custom is slowly changing). Also, after age 40, a man is allowed to have additional wives, but our guide explained that few men take advantage of this since if he spends one hour with one, he must spend one hour with each of the others. If he gives a gift to one, he must give a gift of equal value to each of the others. Although the women will argue amongst themselves, their anger usually turns against the source of their arguments-the man.

Pigeon houses were everywhere, tall, conical structures with holes. Pigeons are used for food and our guide says they taste like chicken. The droppings are used for fertilizer in the fields. (They also have bird flu, and I think there may be a connection.) Also, there were many donkey carts with automobile axels and tires traveling along the streets alongside cars, buses, and trucks. Herds of sheep or goats may stop traffic and cross at any time. Streets were 3 lanes wide, and we never saw a single traffic light anywhere along our Egyptian travels--I doubt there are any at all. There are speed limits, however, for our bus driver got a ticket and we sat on the side of the road for about 15 minutes while he and the security guard argued with the policeman. Eventually, the driver got his license back and we were allowed to proceed.

At the Sakkara Country Club we boarded 4-wheel drive jeeps which took us "off roading" through sand dunes. Seat belts were a must, or we would have bounced off our seats. I think our driver was a wannabe NASCAR driver, for it felt like we were airborne a few times. It was great fun. The jeeps took us to waiting camels, where we had about a 45 minute ride back to the Country Club. I loved it! It was so cool!! Aside from last summer's helicopter ride into the Grand Canyon, I can't recall ever having this much fun. And it wasn't hot--I don't think it was more than 85 there, and of course, no humidity. We were served lunch at the Country Club, but I was apprehensive as to what I might be eating. I didn't recognize much, and after hearing about the pigeons, and seeing the goats (they also eat dogs) I was not sure what to eat. I settled for some spaghetti, for even if the wheat had been grown in pigeon-dropping fertilizer, I figured it would be safe. They also served wine, beer, and soft drinks.

We reboarded the bus and drove to the Sakkara pyramid, also known as the "Step Pyramid" because it has six "steps." We went into the tomb of King Zoses and our guide explained the wall decorations which remain from @ 2500 BC. Even the original color is visible in places. Outside, at the pyramid itself, the temperature by now was well over 110, and it was the first time the entire trip that I actually minded the heat.

After Sakkara, we went into Cairo to witness papyrus being made, and we purchased the "tree of life" on papyrus, a beautiful piece which we will have framed. I also got a cartouche, a gold pendant with my name in hieroglyphics. Very cool. It was after 8 p.m. by the time we reboarded our ship, but what a spectacular day it was!