Tuesday, October 7 Cruise day 3

We awoke around 5 a.m. in Livorno, a busy commercial port. Because the port is so far from any tourist area, the ship provided a shuttle bus ($5. per person each way) to and from the ship through the large and busy commerce area. However, the first shuttle didn't leave until 8:00 am, and because we needed to be at the Livorno Centrale train station by 8:00 a.m., we and several other couples contracted a taxi to take us to the train for a flat rate of E5 per person. We took a train from Livorno with Firenze-bound travelers as far as Pisa Centrale, passing by Camp Darby and Tirrenia, where we once lived and worked. In Pisa, we waited for the 9:02 IC (inter city) train to LaSpezia, watching young university students rush through the train station. A fashion note--scarves are very popular, and no wonder-it was quite damp and chilly.

Once our train reached LaSpezia, we were surprised to find ourselves in a series of tunnels, with only brief glimpses of the water between tunnels on our way to Cinque Terre, an Italian National Park. The first Cinque Terre village, Riomaggiore, has a train station is situated in a 50-70 yard opening beween tunnels. Park passes can be purchased at the large CinqueTerre Parc office located there. Park passes must be validated in a stamping machine, which is the same manner as bus and train tickets are validated.

Access to the village of Riomaggiore is accomplished by walking through a fairly long, well lit and decorated tunnel to the south of the station. The village is built on the sides of steep rock walls, and the colorful houses appear to be constructed upon each other. There are no vehicles in the village near the water. The upper portion of the village may be accessed by vehicles. Other than arriving to explore by train, or walking, travelers can also access the town by boat.

A pleasant, slate-paved walkway called the Via dell'amore (walk of love) extends along the edge of cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean and connects Riomaggiore to the next Cinque Terre town of Manarolla. There are guard rails along the walkway, and while the path is not level, the grades are gradual and easy to navigate. The vistas are breathtaking.

Manorolla appears to be built around a huge rock. It is another picturesque town in Cinque Terre, and has a boat launching area that appears to be fairly recently built. Several steep flights of stairs lead to the ferry boat launch.

Another paved path heads towards the third village, Corniglia, but it abruptly ends in steep inclines covered with loose gravel and dirt. Adventurous travelers were seen navigating this path with hiking boots and climbing poles. It would be hazardous to do it any other way. A train, however, connects Manorolla with Corniglia. The train station there has the largest opening between tunnels.

There are two ways to reach the village of Corniglia from the train station-by climbing 380 uneven steps up or by taking the rather steep road about 1 ½ miles long. There is a park shuttle bus from the train station to the village, and this is highly recommended as the hike up the road is strenuous, and ends in a small piazza from which there are several narrow streets less than six feet wide that connect to the rest of the village. There are a few Bars that offer light refreshments, and the view is beautiful, but there is not much for the casual tourist to see in Corniglia. By this time, the day had warmed and the sun was hot.

Vernazza is the fourth village in Cinque Terre, and probably the most charming with its fishing boats and colorful buildings. The train station is actually the center of the village. Side streets are narrow and moderately steep. Most include flights of steep stairs. Fishing boats line the streets here as cars do in other cities. There are several fine restaurants with open air dining and views of the coast, and many shops feature locally produced items.

A short train ride away is the fifth village, Monterosso. It is the largest of the Cinque Terre villages, and there are vehicles. Here a main road goes along the sea, and the wide beaches are mostly gravel. One end of the town features Gigantico, a concrete giant formed onto the rock overlooking the Mediterranean and seemingly "holding up" one end of a building. The other end of the road along the ocean leads to the center of the village, accessible via a shared vehicle/pedestrian tunnel. Nearby, a long-abandoned World War II "pillbox" overlooks the sea.

Cinque Terre is not a destination for visitors with handicaps or impared mobility. Elevators at train stations are limited, and cobblestone streets are steep, and slippery when wet. Facilities at train stations are limited, but usually have a news stand, WC (water closet) and a Bar. Ticket validation machines are generally located in the tunnels (sottopassagio), and it is important to validate the tickets or face fines.

Reluctantly, we left the unique and beautiful Cinque Terre area and returned by trains to LaSpezia, where we boarded the wrong train to Pisa and Livorno, but eventually returned to Piazza Grande in Livorno to catch the shuttle bus back to the Legend of the Seas. We were too late to eat in the dining room, but were content to eat and relax in the Windjammer, finishing in time to catch the last half of a show in the theater featuring acrobats from the Cirque de Soleil. What a fabulous day!