Saturday, October 18, Civitavecchia. End of the cruise.

We self-disembarked, which means we took our own luggage off the ship. This is by far the easiest method of leaving a cruise, as you don't have to place your suitcases outside your cabin door. You simply take your suitcases and leave the ship prior to the other passengers. And you don't have to try to find your luggage, either.

We boarded buses in the dark, and were taken to the edge of the port area, where we dragged our suitcases up the street to the train station. We were early and had to wait about one and one half hours on the chilly, damp platform for the train that would take us to Pisa and our connection to Florence.

We took the train via Pisa instead of Roma Termini as we wanted to avoid the hustle and bustle of the later. Besides, the scenery between Civitavecchia and Pisa is much prettier than that going to Roma Termini. Takes a bit longer but worth the trade-off.

We arrived in Firenze SMN around noon. There are several train stations in the Florence area, but the main station, and the one closest to the tourist area, is Firenze SMN, Santa Maria Novella, so named because the stop is across the street from a beautiful church with that name.

It is important to note that this was not our first trip to Firenze. In fact our relationship with this beautiful city, and each other, spans four decades. No matter how many times we visit we always go by the sites a first time visitor does - The Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, the Ponte Vecchio, Santa Croce, Mercato Centrale, and the place we met originally - The Red Garter. No matter how many times we visit, we always see something new and different in this magical place. When we go back again I am certain it will be the same.

We located an elevator (very important when dragging luggage) to take us from the train station to street level, then pulled our suitcases up the street to our hotel, a renovated 100 year old villa, the Villa Azalee. We secured a room that overlooked a garden on the ground floor and set off to see Firenze. Even though there is heavy traffic all around the Villa Azalee, the walls and botanical garden behind the villa make it a pleasant retreat from the hustle and bustle surrounding it. One more word about this hotel-they provide a lovely breakfast each morning for their guests, to include juice, coffee, eggs, and pastries.

I found this hotel while researching for our Jun '07 Med trip. It is truly a diamond in the rough. True Italian in every sense of the way. Quite large by Italian standards; clean and comfortable. Impeccable service. Popular with German and Italian travelers. Easy walk to train station and historic sights.

We wandered to the Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace in English) This is a huge Renaissance palace in situated on the south side of the River Arno, a short distance from the Ponte Vecchio. It dates from 1458 and was originally the town residence of Luca Pitti, a Florentine banker. Later it was bought by the Medici family in 1539 and became the residence of the ruling families of Tuscany. It has also been used by Napoleon. In 1919, it was donated to the Italian people by King Victor Emmanuel III in 1919, and now houses several art collections. Behind the Palazzo Pitti is the famed Giardino di Boboli where you could easily spend a better part of the day.

As you proceed down the street, beyond the Palazzo Pitti, you will reach Piazza San Felice. Just before you get there, on your left, you will pass a wonderful little gelati shop with prices that are ¼ to ½ the price you will pay on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio. The first street to your right, Via Maggio, will lead you to Ponte S. Trinita and Via dei Tornabuoni (home of some well known shops.) The second street to the right will lead you to Piazza Santo Spirito, home of a charming open market that caters to locals - not tourists.

Some of the shops on Via Dei Tornabuoni. Also, a caution to those who "shop" elsewhere looking for a better price.

The Ponte Veccio (Italian for Old Bridge) is a medieval bridge over the Arno River and is most famous for all the shops built along it, as was once common. Originally, butcher shops were located here, but today's shops display high-end jewelry and works of art. The Ponte Veccio is one of the very few bridges over the Arno that was not destroyed in WW II. For the traveler on a budget, this is a feast for the eyes, if not the pocket book. Check prices carefully. Even off the bridge, seemingly simple items like gelati, cafe and cappuccino and coffee can cost 4-5 times as much as they do just a few blocks away.

Speaking of purchases, there appear to be three tiers of prices for items in many 'local bars' (Italian fast food places where sandwiches, cappuccinos and drinks of all types can be purchased). There is the advertised price for tourists, a mid price for customers who speak Italian, and a lower price for locals. If possible, try to order in Italian-it could very well save you some money.

Museums in Italy are closed in Mondays, so we scheduled our museum visits for Sunday. Walking to our first museum early Sunday morning, we had a rare experience: the cool streets of Florence were practically deserted-a very rare occurrence. Our first destination was the Accademia di Belle Arti Firenze (founded in 1561) where we had reservations to see the statue of David by Michelangelo. This museum has been the home of the original David by Michelangelo since 1873. However, as we arrived there as it opened for the day, and were among the first to enter, we found that our reservations were unnecessary. Not only that, but it was less expensive to enter without reservations! David is the most incredible statue I've ever seen, with veins and details so lifelike that one almost expects it to come to life and move. In addition to David, there are other notable renaissance works on display, including 15th and 16th century paintings by Uccello, Ghirlandaio, Botticelli, and many more. The original plaster model of the very famous Rape of the Sabine Women is also located there, as well as plaster casts of many other famous statues.

Just a short walk from the Accademia is the The Museo Leonardiano di Vinci. This houses an incredible collection of da Vinci's drawings and full size models that were made from those drawings, including his bicycle, parachute, and the articulated wings that da Vinci designed. Most of this is "eyes only," but some, like the pulley systems, are actually hands-on. Enjoyment of these inventions was heightened by a repetitively-playing video just inside the entrance, providing essential background information and detailing events in Da Vinci's life.

Because it was a beautiful day, we took a number 7 bus to Fiesole, a lovely little hilltop town about 20-25 minutes from Florence. Here, one can explore Etruscan and Roman ruins, and stroll through a beautiful, peaceful town that is quite unlike the touristy hustle and bustle of Firenze, just minutes away. Being Sunday, almost everything was closed, but we walked through the streets and enjoyed the magnificent vistas overlooking olive groves and the Etruscan and Roman ruins on one side, and the vastness of the city of Firenze on the other.

Our next stop was the Piazzale Michelangelo (take the number 12 or 13 bus from the train station). This is a must-see destination for every traveler to Firenze. Located atop a hill overlooking all of Florence, it has a huge statue of Michelangelo's David in the center. (This statue, while beautiful, does not do justice to the original). This is photography heaven as all of Florence lies, quite literally, at your feet. There are also places to sit, purchase drinks or snacks, and buy the usual tourist souvenirs. You can either take the bus back down into Florence, or descend several stairs and walk 20-30 minutes along the Arno to reach the city-proper again.